San José - No Neon, Just Old-Fashion Fun

Nestled between the sea and rolling hills of southern Spain, the beachside resort of San José does not have large, ritzy hotels nor fancy shopping districts.  There aren’t any casinos, boardwalk amusements nor neon lights.  And, except for the month of August, not too many people either. 

Nonetheless, San José is alive!  Brightly colored umbrellas speckle the beach, never filling it.  The Internet cafe's six computers are always busy but just wait ten minutes and one will free up.  And as the sun sets and families return from the beach, lights flicker on in hundreds of homes that line the hills of the town.  Bars and restaurant terraces begin to fill up and hippies congregate near the main plaza to sell their wares. 

BEACHES

There is a great variety of beaches in and near San José.  Aside from the main beach in the center of town, there must be close to a dozen small beaches tucked away in coves, between rocks and at the bottom of tiny cliffs all along San José's coastline, right up to the point at the far end of town.

Main Beach

San Jose’s main beach is very popular with families because it is close to “home” and there is plenty of room to sunbathe and play.  Everything is at hand; places to grab a bite to eat, life guards, beach umbrella rentals, showers, dressing rooms, playground, paddle boats rentals and a place to play volleyball.

Los Genoveses & Monsul

In the adjacent natural park, a short drive from town, you can enjoy the natural beaches of Los Genoveses and Monsul.  Los Genoveses is a majestic, crescent shape beach of white sand lined with pine trees and cacti.  Monsul sports a huge boulder in the middle of the beach which juts out over the water like a petrified wave.  Surrounded by a brown-sand beach with cliffs and coves, Monsul’s enchantment is such that it has been the scene of many Hollywood movies from Lawrence of Arabia to Raiders of the Lost Ark.

CUISINE

A long morning at any of the beaches really works up an appetite.  San José has an extraordinary number of restaurants for such a small town.  The most inexpensive cuisine is Italian and the best is Spanish.

The restaurant El Ancla makes one great, Italian pizza.  Their large, thin-crust pizza is chuck full of fresh, tasty ingredients.  The owner and the waitstaff speak mostly Italian sprinkled with Spanish and English.  The restaurant is located on the corner of Calle Real del Sotillo and Restaurant Row near the main beach. 

For exquisite, Italian pasta head for il Brigantino on Restaurant Row near the harbor.  They serve a wide variety of fresh pasta from fettuccini “al pesto” to penne pasta in a creamy seafood sauce.

Without moving from Restaurant Row, you can choose from a variety of restaurants that serve excellent seafood, especially fish.  Try Taberna del Puerto at the port but avoid peak hours as the rush does not lend itself to finding an empty table. 

Casa Pepe is recommended for its beautiful seaside view from a rustic, country terrace.  Painted blue posts sprout from white-washed walls to support a grass canopy providing cover for just 10 tables.  They serve typical Spanish dishes such as paella, calamars and bream.  The waitstaff is young and slightly inexperienced but friendly, flexible and willing to give advice or take a snap shot for you.

EVENINGS

After a chance to let your lunch settle and take a nice, long Spanish siesta, it’s time for a stroll and a look around town.  Much of the late afternoon and evening activities take place along the promenade and in the town’s main plaza where there is a variety of things to do, buy and see.

The ice cream shop on the promenade has a variety of very sinful, Italian ice cream.  People line up at the open window on the side street to choose one (or two) scoops of the 30 plus flavors of rich, creamy ice cream that Gelato serves.

Nearby, the hippies set up their tables just as dusk is coming on.  They light candles and set them in between their wares.  Some display hand-made jewelry on black velvet backgrounds while others throw a blanket on the ground and sell a variety of indigenous cacti.

On the far side of the town square you’ll find the Internet Cafe "La Tierra" run by a local couple.  Here you can buy a coke and rent the use of a computer for a 20 minute session for 60 cents and printouts for 15 cents each.  One of the owners, Carmen or Domenech, is always available to lend you a hand.

For unusual gifts, stop by Salamandra.  This imaginative gift store is tucked between a newspaper stand and a restaurant on the opposite side of the square.  Decorative items from beads to iron lamps are displayed on shelves underlit with a soft, orange glow.  Hundreds of creative and innovative gift items are displayed on the stores shelves. 

Visit Books in English if you want to read a novel while you are lying on the beach or relaxing on your terrace.  Located just past the town square above the store “Aladino”, Books in English is run by David.  Friendly and jovial, he'll help you find just the type of used book that you need to make your vacation more relaxing. 

For a drink visit “Bar Monsul” which plays classic pop music from the 60’s and is only a 5 minute walk from the center of town.  For a bite to eat and an under-30 crowd, hang out at "Bar El Chiringuito" and enjoy great meals and beer or two under the stars.  This bar is, without a doubt, the least expensive place to eat and drink in all of San José and the adjoining hostel is also inexpensive, only $9 a night.  But, if you’re feeling a bit lazy and don’t want to leave the center, just go to the port side of the promenade and grab a seat at “La Atrevida”; a quiet terrace with views of the beach.

Beaches, great meals, cool purchases and nightlife at an enjoyable pace are brought together in San José.  If you are looking to relax this summer but don’t want to get bored, consider immersing yourself in the small town ambiance of San José.

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